Ghosts in South Africa

Cape Town

2009-10-22T23:56:00.000+02:00

Today's route: Seapoint to Noordhoek

The last two days in Cape Town have been wonderful, both in the enjoyment of this increadibly beautiful city and in the satisfaction of a tour well completed.

Yesterday, Wednesday, was a very windy day. The Kennedy's and us left the hotel early and drove north to Bleuberg, which provides the iconic view of Table Mountain across the bay. I have always wanted a photograph of the car from there and it was well worth the drive.

A sugested drive was around thge penninsula, but as windy as it was I decided to avoid the False Bay side and instead headed to Noordhoek along the eastern side. Through Sea Point and then onto Clifton - the beaches as magnificent as ever and then through Bantry Bay and along the most magnificent coastal road up past Llandudno and then down Suikerbosie into Hout Bay. All this was my regular cycling route when I liverd here for a few months so many years ago and it has not lost it's splendor.

Up and onto Chapman's Peak with its long climb is an incredible experience. Sheer cliffs alongside, the icy waves crashing onto the rocks below it is simply magnificent. Rounding the apex, the view back to Hout Bay is outstanding, then we begin the twists and turns of the descent into Noordhoek.

Once in Noordhoek, we were welcomed at Lord and Lady Laidlaw's estate - the most magnificent home and gardens I have ever visited. Spanning over 300 hectares, it is crafted with style and elegance and unlike many large houses it is clearly a home - both warm and intimate depsite it's size. The gardens are simly spectacular and defy adequate description that would do them any sort of justice. A wonderful lunch was catered with care by Christine and with excellence by their chef. It was one of the highlights of this tour.

Also at the luncheon Fredericke had an exhibition of her work - stunning paintings by one of South Africa's most talented artisits. We were fortunate to see them.

After lunch we returned to our hotel and a little later went out to Gordon Ramsey's restaurant Maze - the food was forgetable but the company was great.

Our last day, today, started with a visit to the Christian Barnard Museum which honors the world's first heart transplant - it was excellent. Then a loverly lunch with family (Eve and Gerald ress) and a friend Robyn Nuthall and then a good afternoon with my brother Rod.

Our final tour banquet was held tonight - it was excellent and sad witht he realization that the tour is now over. Tomorrow we ship the cars, and ourselves, back to our many corners of th world.

I would like to thank John and Fredericke White and Stuart and Cindy Maxwell, our organisers and hosts, for the trip of a lifetime.

Franschoek to Cape Town

2009-10-20T22:36:00.000+02:00

Today's route: Franschoek to Cape Town 76 miles

After almost three years of planning, and months of car preperation, today we drove the final leg into Cape Town, South Africa's Mother City. The tour is not quite over, as there are day trips still planned.

It was with somewhat mixed feelings that I left Franschoek this morning after breakfast on this final destination leg of the journey. Situated in the heart of wine country, the drive was marked by fields and fields of grape vines as far a sone could look.

Our first stop was at the Franschoek Mpotor Museum, a private collection of some of the finest and rarest cars in the world, housed in four large showrooms. Simply stunning and they even had a Curved Dash Oldesmobile like mine!

After having tea there, we drove to the Hartenberg Wine Estate for lunch, where we were joined by local RR owners. A great wine tasting and simple picnic lunch.

After lunch, a fairly short 50 km to Cape Town, our first view of Table Mountain coming from quite far out.

After so many kilometers, we arrived at the Waterfront Raddison - a spendid hotel right on the water. The car had made it, and apparently so had I.

It was quite sad parking for the last time, although there are day trips planned.

An hour later we were off to Table Mountain - a magnificent view from the top. Never tires.

Cape Town as a lovely as ever.

Arniston to Franschoek

2009-10-19T22:35:00.001+02:00

Todays route: Arniston to Franschoek 197 miles

The sunrise in Arneston was brilliant orange between the early clouds. The howling seaside wind dies soon after sunrise and it was another brilliant blue sky day.

We left Arniston soon after breakfast, with Gerald Davies driving the first 25 km for me - he had come down from Botswana to visit! After he left, we carried on our route through huge farms of wheat and cattle - the heat building as the morning aged.

Our tea stop was in the seaside town of Hermanus at a private home. On arrival, it seemed the entire town was there to meet us, applauding as we entered and followed by a speech by the mayor. The home, contemporary in design, was built onto the rocks overlooking the huge expanse of beach. Every window framed a stunning view. The tea and snacks were wonderful, but the day was stolen by the multiple pods of whales visible fron the deck - mother's and calves.

After tea we headed for Franschoek. Soon enough the multiplicity of vineyards appeared as we were entering the very heart of the Cape wine industry. Field after field of vine.

The final climb up the Franschoek Pass was lovely, and the view as we crested stunning.

After descending the very twisty and steep downhill, we checked into the magnificent hotel - we have our own villa - and then promptly went into the vlllage for a kingclip lunch and some shopping.

Franschoek is a very pretty town - green leaves and white Cape architecture everywhere.

A relaxed afternoon and nice dinner tonight.

Oudtshoorn to Arniston

2009-10-18T22:30:00.002+02:00

Today's route: Oudtshoorn to Arniston 204 miles

Today was a magnificent day - fantastic weather and a route that could only be dreamed for.

We left Oudtshoorn soon after breakfast, the crisp morning air buffeting around us in the opne car. The Klein Karoo's emptyness soom gave way to a mountain pass that was not very high, but also wound it's way through rock formations and over a river. The tea stop was at a very nice B&B and they certainly outdid themselves in all the baked goods - served in their back verandah garden under the purple canopy of a blossoming Jacaranda tree.

From tea we pressed on south, and soon enough the Karoo was replaced with endless farmlands of the southern Cape - gentle rolling hills surrounded by wheatfields.

Arniston is a fishing village at the tip of Africa - stark while houses in the Cape style that overlook the absolutely turqiose water of the Indian Ocean against stark white beaches. We pulled into the Arniston Hotel and parked on their front lawn - the ocean providing a magnificent backdrop to Bill Kennedy's panoramic picture.

After lunch (calamari, fish and carrot cake!), by now almost 4 pm, we jumped back into the car and set off for another 50 km (100 km round trip) to Cape Agulus - the southern most tip of the huge African continant, Arriving there, we found a stunning coastline and soon made our way to the very tip of Africa - where the Indian and Atlantic Ocean's meet in a swirl of turbulent vortices. A terrific feeling standing there - with the car to one side - definately one of those life moments.

Arrving back at the hotel just in time for dinner we managed to see the last of the sunset.

This was one of the best days on the tour. Perhaps they all are.

Oudtshoorn

2009-10-17T22:00:00.000+02:00

Today's route: Rest day Oudshoorn

Today was a rest day, although there was a suggested drive to Prince Albert fro lunch followed by a climb over the Swartberg Pass.

As I had a lot of car work to do - relap some valves - I started early but pretty soon it became obvious to me that I would miss the drive, I chose to do the car work as it is more important to get it right now rather than risk a problem later.

So, Bill and I spent most of the day doing valve work in the hot sun. But, when we were finished, we did takr a drive up the Swartberg Pass to see the magnificent scenery - husge vistas of farmland abbutting the concoluted cliff faces of the Outeniqwa mountains. Quite magnificent.

Dinner was at the hotel - not bad - with a birthday song for Joan.

Short day - back on the road tomorrow.

Knysna to Outdshoorn

2009-10-16T21:57:00.001+02:00

Today's route: Knysna to Outshoorn 74 miles

After an early breakfast we left Knysna along the N2 headed towards George. Although we had no schedules or suggested stop there, we did want to visit the transport museum. So, the coastal road to George is splendid, particularly as it passes through Wilderness -a long expanse of stunning beach.

The museum in George is very good - lots of steam engines and old railway carriages - the ones I remember taking from Johannesburg to cape Town!

Leaving George we headed inland, climbing the long and steep pass to cross the Outeniqwa mountains - a fantastic view from the top over the town and the ocean. The mountain range itself is impressive - I cannot imagine an ox wagon crossing, but know it waa done.

Once we crested the mountain, the scenery changed dramtically as the Klein Karoo stretched below us. Huge opne areas of scrub, with valleys green with farming.

Before long, we had evidence that Outdshorn was close - the ostrich farms with which this town is synonemous. After checking into the hotel, we had a lovely braai lunch then left to explore the Safari Ostrich Farm - I was last there about 30 years ago! These are strange birds, but it was a lot of fun!

Dinner tonight was a buffet at the hotel - very nice.

Knysna

2009-10-15T21:21:00.000+02:00

Today's route: Rest day Knysna

Today was an extremely lazy day. Somewhat overcast but not cold at all.

First up at 11 am was a meeting with local classic car enthusiasts at the Knysna Yacht Club. They brought their cars - most MG's, and we looked at theirs and they looked at ours. It was good fun. Following this we walked around the stores at the waterfront and had a nice, light seafood lunch.

Most people went shopping or relaxed / napped at Belvedere Manor until 5.30 pm, when we boarded minibuses to take us back to the harbor for a sunset dinner cruise. Nice "paddle" boat and a good dinner. Qute relaxing and back at the hotel by 8.45 pm.

Tomorrow, back on the road.

Knysna to the Heads and Wilderness

2009-10-14T22:10:00.000+02:00

Today's route: Knysna to the Heads and Wilderness approx 70 miles

Today was a rest day at the Belvedere Manor - the wonderful hotel we are staying in at Knysna,

After an outdoor breakfast,we set out for the Heads - the two huge outcrops that form the entrance from the Indian Ocean to the Knysna lagoon. We drove up and up to reach the Visitor Lookoput point. The view is stunning - the town of Knysna, the harbor and lagoon and of course the pocean and hazard filled coastline. It's a great drive up and a slightly nerve racking drive down in an old car!

After a quick stop in town to look around, we headed out to Wilderness for lunch. Karl, a dairy farmer and mechanic is travelling with us on the tour to take care of cars that need it, and has a wonde4rful farm in Wilderness, about 50 km from Knysna. The drive is lovely - ocean on one side and mountains and lakes on the other.

Karl and his wife Tilly had prepared a fantastic lunch of salads and braai'd meat, breads and desert - great food at a very relaxed and beautiful location. We sat in the garden at their house on the farm, surrounded by fields of cows - some of whom calved while we we there. Also the first time I had tried fresh - straight from the cow milk - unpateurised. Delicious.

After arriving back at the hotel this evening, some minor car work and then another braai'd dinner - boerewors, lamb, chicken etc. And pudding.

Weather has ben great for a few days - sunny and hot.

Port Elizabeth to Knysna

2009-10-13T22:28:00.001+02:00

Today's route: Port Elizabeth to Knysna 205 miles

Today began a route that will encompass some of the most magnificent scenery in South Africa - the fames Garden Route. It would have begun better had I filled up with petrol on the way into Port Elizabeth yesterday and not run out a block from the garage, but no matter!

Leaving PE we travelled along the coastal road west for a while through farmland and small villages clinging to the coastal cliffs to Humansdorp, past Jeffrey's Bay and finally entering the Tsitsikama Forrest where the trees grow tall and lush on wither side of the road. As we were amongst the last to leave PE, we soon came accross some of the others travelling a little slower than us and it is always fun to travel for a while in convoy.

Turning into Storm's River Mouth we wound along a steep decline along the cliffs towards the crushing foam below - the rocks that have wrecked so many ships majestic and threatening as ever. We parked at the tea room - all the cars drawing much attention. Looking out over the rocks, water and cliffs brought back many memories from times spent there in our Varsity years - it looks very much the same (larger tea room though).

From Storm's River Mouth, we continued on the N2, crested a hill after about 50 km and found Plettenberg Bay stretched out far below us. Even from that distance the growth in Plett was readily apparent. I turned into Plett, filled up with petrol again and carried on along the main road.

Plett is very built up now with new houses, condo's, a school and many businesses - however it is easy to recognise the skeleton upon which it is built. Lunch was at a fantastic restuarant overlooking Lookoout beach - an incredible view. Kingklip at last! The sun was shining well at that time and it was really terrific.

After lunch we deviated from the route to look at Plett a little. The main road takes a sharp downhill towards the ocean, and rounding a corner we saw the Beacon Isle Hotel - unchanged. I drove up, and as when I was here in my 20's, they would not let me in! Howver, the view of Robberg Beach from the hotel was stunning. Plett is still a magnificent place despite the growth.

From Plett we covered 36 km to Knysna to the Belveder Manor - a loverly hotel of cottages - we have a two story house. We sat around and chatted unbtil dinner - forgetable food at best.

2009-10-12T22:17:00.000+02:00

Today's route: Shamwari to Port Elizabeth 87 miles

The day started off early with a game drive. Finally, the weather was just magnificent and the view from the lodge before leaving was great.

On the drive today we had a specific gpoal of finding rhino and leopard, but right out the gates we came upon a pride of lion - the male having just eaten a warthog. Moving on, we searched the area high on the ridge for the leopard - she had a cub three weeks ago and has it hidden in one of the caves while she hunts. We never found her, but we had a great view.

With no leopard in sight, we stopped and had coffee in the bush.

We found a family of white rhino just before returning to the camp for breakfast - a good one of boereword, egg, toast etc - typically South African!

After breakfast we left for Port Elizabeth, but the car ran terribly. It was clearly a fuel issue. I had the carburetor rebuilt just before shipping the car, but something was clearly wrong with it = and I had struggelled with it all along - fuel starvation. So, on the side of the dirt road, Bill Kennedy, Bill Vatter, myself and Karl (local) took the whole thing apart and found the problem - the rebuilder has forgotten to put a spring on the high speed needle. Karl furnished one, and we reassembled the thing.

Back on the road, we almost flew to Port ELizabeth - the car was running very well. It's a short drive, and great to see the ocean again. PE is a fairly large city. We parked and I needed a few things from an auto parts store - a local heard me say that and offered to drive me and off we went. Uon return, we serviced the car and went in for a shower and dinner.

The view from the room is great.

Tomorrow, off the Knysna via Plettenberg Bay.

Shamwari Game Reserve

2009-10-11T21:58:00.000+02:00

Today's route: Rest day at Shamwari Game Reserve

Shamwari is the largest private game reserve in the eastern Cape, covering a huge amount of land and home to all the big species of animals and birdsin South Africa. Like all game parks here, the animals are self sustaining - eat or be eaten.

Our group has been split amongst the lodges, so we have not seen the others in a day or so.

As it was overcast and had raine3d a fair amount overnight, we did not go out at 5.30 am as expected, but rather after breakfast around 9 am. It was an incredible morning.

First up we came upon a large herd of elephant - everything from large bulls to baby's just a few months old. They were very comfortable with our presence, at times passing within a foot of the land rover. Once a young male walked straight up and stared into our vehicle - straight at Bill. They are always a majestic sight.

As we were leaving the area, we were called back as another landrover had a flat tire and needed our jack.

Following this, we found a small pride of lion - the male was intent on mating but the femalw was having none of that. We watched the lion for a while before moving on again.

Aside from the usual sprinkbok, impala, kudu we found a good sized herd of giraffe - always fun to see.

Finally, cheetah. Three all quite relaxed - so much so that we were able to leave the landrover and walk to within 30 feet of the, Awesome.

Lunch, after we returned to the lodge, was fine. Excellent food but we finished late - around 3pm - then they ushered us over for tea and cake! Skipped that.

The afternoon game drive began well - lion, warthog and then two rare black rhino. Then the rain started again, heavy and cold. We stuck it out for a while then headed back for a warm shower. Dinner was an indoor braai (boerewors, pap, steak etc) and then tomorrow after the norning game drive we head fpr Port Elizabeth

Technical stuff

2009-10-11T13:07:00.000+02:00

A couple of technical notes for the car people following this blog:

My car:

After about 5 days of the tour, I noticed two misfires while driving- when I shut the car down I noticed the car did not run on the magneto - opened that up and found the magneto points destroyed. Pulled out the whole point plate and ran on just the battery ignition for a few days. Bill was able to bring new points with him and once I put those in the magneto worked fine again.

Had to retune the carburetor after I installed the air filter - still was not riht and spent a day or so getting it right.

One flat tire (tube failure) - changed the tube.

Other cars and the repairs done on the tour:

Split wheel rim - unrepaired yet
Failed hand air pump (rebuilt on the tour)
Failed oil pump due to rounded shaft - built up with weld and then ground square - now works
Split battery terminals - replaced

So far, none to bad and all cars still on the tour.

Cradock to Shamwari Game Reserve

2009-10-10T19:58:00.001+02:00

Today's Route: Cradock to Shamwari Game Park 109 miles

After a lovely breakfast in Cradock, we left headed for Shamwari Gampe Park in the Eastern Cape. It was a very easy and short drive. The sparseness of the Karroo gives way to very fertile, green valley's scattered with farms before long.

As we got further south, the weather worsened and soon the blue sky was gone and clouds covered the sky. As we climbed another mountain pass, mist thickened and light rain started. As it was now quite cold, we put up the side curtains and pretty soon were very warm.

Arriving at Shamwari, we were very warmly greeted by the staff. This is a large private game reerve where every guest has every need catered to. We had a late lunch and then set off on a game drive. Six to eight to a vehicle - ours were Bill, me, Stuart, Cindy, John, Fredericke and Phil - and of course our ranger Shaun.

Althought he weather was a bit iffy, we did see good stuff - giraffe, hippo, lion, sprinkbok, impala, blesbok, wildebeest, gemsbok.

On return, just after dark we had a short breal and then a wonderful dinner.

Graaff Reinet to Cradock

2009-10-09T22:36:00.000+02:00

Today's Route: Graaff Reinet to Cradock 111 miles (no track today)

As we had a short drive today, we decided to visit the photography exhibit in the town's museum and it was excellent. Pictures and equipment told the story of Graaff Reinet's past, and the camera collection brought back many memories for me.

Instead of the prescribed route for the day, we detoured through the game park - great to go game viewing in an open Ghost. it is a small park but we did see a fair amount.

The road to Cradock passes over two long and fairly high mountain passes, but it was an easy drive. Definately cooler on the plateau. Arriving in Cradock, we were treate to an amazing lunch in the garden of the hotel owner. Great cold buffett and excellent desert of melktert and koeksisters.

The hotel needs to be seen to be believed. All the houses on the street were aquired and restored in period correct fashion. Each house is assigned to a guest - so Bill and I have a 4 bedroom house, fully furnished with a garden too, all to ourselves. It is 1920's living at its best.

In the evening we were treated to various local singers performing in the Dutch Reformed Church - an imposing building nearby. Afrikaans songs, English songs - but the night belonged to the four Xhosa women who sang Nkosi Sikelela Africa - a powerful and very moving rendition of the National Anthem. The irony of this group singing that song at this location was not lost on me and I am sure I could feel the earth quiver as so many long dead souls spun in their graves. It was a fantastic performance, as were the other artists.

Dinner in the hotel restaurant was elegant and delicious. Candelabra on each table. Biltong salad followed by lamb chops, leg of lamb, chicken and Kudu pie and of course, desert.

Terrific day

Graaff Reinet

2009-10-08T21:57:00.000+02:00

Today's route: none - rest day

Today we spent in and around Graaff Reinet, a small but historic town in the Karoo.

An early start saw me checking the brakes and getting quite greasy - all is ok. Then John had arranged for the main street to be shut down so we could all parkl in front of the hotel to have a picture takes.So, after some arrangment we were all lined up, posed and then it was done.

After breakfast we had a real treat offered and several of us chose to participate. John had arranged for us to visit a private fossil collection, so off we went. Stuart, one of the tour organisers drove my car with me and Bill in the dickey seat. It was 30 km away.

On arrival, we found ourselves on the most magnificent farm with Cape Dutch architecure everywhere. It is a huge farm, in the same family since 1820 (original settlers). We were trearted to a lovely tea and then went to the fossil collection. Housed in its own building, this is the largest private colleciton in the world - you cannot imagine it. Huge skulls of dinosaurs and reptiles, all found on the farm. It was stunning.

Back in town we had lunch at a local restaurant wich was very nice. After that, a drive to overlook the Valley of Desolation. Terrific views up a very steep climb and then sunset before returning for dinner.

Geriep Dam to Graaff Reinet

2009-10-07T15:48:00.001+02:00

Today's Route: Geriep Dam to Graaf-Reinett 191 miles

Today was a fabulous day - it was everything I wanted in a Ghosttour of South Africa. We left Geriep Dam, which is in the northeast of the Cape Province and headed south west for Graaf Reinett.

The drive wound it's way through the Karoo Desert - vast open plains of veld, with scrub brush and mountains on either side. Huge sky. Blue sky. Warm weather. And a great running car. What more could I ask for?

Our first stop was for tea in Steinberg - a very small Karoo town and quite typical. The tearoom was owned by an Afrikaaner who was very sweet. Tea or coffee, sausage rolls, apple strudel and of course, melktert. The cars caused quite a sensation - even the Chief of Police came out to see them.

We then pressed on to Middleberg for lunch - at the only hotel in town. Once again, the cars drew a very large crowd in this very small and dated town. Time has stood still in the Karoo.

After lunch we set off on the final leg for today - passed sheep farms, windmills and desolate dwellings. Two passes to climb - the highest to 5400 feet. Fantastic driving but very windy. Vervet monkeys all over the place. We arrived in the historic town of Graaff Reinet in the late afternoon to the Drosty Hotel. The hotel is charming, Cape Dutch architecture.

Graaff Reinet was settled by the Dutch very early in South African history. Like many Karoo towns, it too has changed little. Many wonderful buildings. We will be here two days as tomorrow is a rest and service day

Bloemfontein to Geriep Dam

2009-10-06T15:43:00.000+02:00

Today's route: Bloemfontein to Geriep Dam 111 miles

Last night I offered the Boyntons to drive the Ghost today and I would drive their rental car as they needed a Ghost fix. So bright and early I went down to get the car ready for them only to find a flat tire. Well, I changed the wheel in a matter of minutes, but fixing the flat, for the non-Ghosters reading this, is a long, dirty and sweaty endevour. But, with the help if Bill, Lynn and Mike (and some choiuce language I might add) we did it in about 90 minutes. By this time all the other cars had left and off went Jacquie and Lynn. We followed after a quick breakfast in their rental.

The drive is quite flat, the road surrounded by endless dry karoo grasland, mountains in the distance. As this is sheep farming land, we saw ots of them! In the modern car I was able to go quite fast, yet never caught the Bowntons until we arrived at the resort.

The resort is comprised of self catering rondavels, camping and a restaurant in which we had lunch. It has a wonderful view of Geriep Dam. This is the largest dam in South Africa as it controls the Orange River and provides irrigation, drinking and hydropower. We had a great tour of the dam wall, deep inside and they actually opened one of the water gates and out poured 20 000 liters per second. Quite a sight.

The afternoon was spent on minor fixes on the car as well as sitting around BS'ing with Matt and Bob. We decided to skipt the buffett dinner planned and went to the only local restaurant where we had steak, sitting outside. It was terrific

Clarens to Bloemfontein

2009-10-05T18:43:00.000+02:00

Today's route: Clarens to Bloemfontein 182 miles

The sun shone brightly on Clarens this morning - but not initially on us. After a breakfast of fruit and granola, we set off to get petrol - but the car would not start. Mystery as it was fine yesterday - fiddled around and got it going after a while and then it performed very well all day.

Leaving Clarens we again drove through wonderful rock formations (Bill driving) for some time before the road gave way to rolling hills. On either side, veld and farmland and in the distance the mountains. Mile after mile rolled byand it felt like we were sailing along.

We skipped the tea stop and continued on - the scenery flattening out as we got closer and closer to Bloemfontein.

Bloemfontein is not a pretty town - it is a stop for us between two other beautiful places.

On arrival we had a nice lunch, and then went to stock up on things at an auto part store. The rest of the afternoon was spent kicking tires in the parking lot - always fun.

An uneventful excellent day

Champaigne Castle to Clarens

2009-10-04T17:49:00.000+02:00

Today's Route: Champaigne Castle to Clarens 111 miles

We left the Drakensburg today, but not before we hade a chance to drive down the range with great views of the mountains in between the shifting clouds. Not too far along, we encountered light rain which caused us to put the top up.
Interesting locals at the gas station.

There were two mountain passes to climb as we left the valley and ascended to the escarpment. The first pass was 16 km in length, winding along as we climbed from 3200 feet to 6200 feet. At the top we stopped for tea - by which time the wind had really picked up and it was quite cold - we attached the side curtains and within a short time had warmed up substantially.

After tea we motored along the escarpment at 80 - 100 km/h until we reached the Golden Gate National Park. The park is absolutely beautiful, long winding roiads surrounded by tall rock formations and green poplar trees that turn brilliant yellow in autumn - not now though. In the park we climbed the second pass to around 7000 feet - the car needs second gear for these unclines - around 10% - and on one needed first gear all the way up.

Arriving at Clarens in time for lunch we found a wonderful little town full of art galleries, restaurants and gift shops. And actually open on a Sunday. Lunch was bobotie - a South African delacy of Malay origin and then a walk around town.

Tomorrow we head for Bloemfontein

Champaigne Castle

2009-10-03T21:44:00.001+02:00

Today's Route: rest day

Finally a great weather day - as I woke early, I went and sat and watched the sunrise slowly creep across the Drakensburg Mountains - a very special sight.

After breakfast, we drove just a mile or so to a Bird of Prey center for an exhibition of raptor behaviour. They rehab birds at this center, many of which return to the wild. They put on a great show - the demonstrator will release an eagle who then finds a thermal and rides it up a thousand feet or so - at which time out comes a piece of chicken in the trainer's hand. The bird then dives vertically down at terrific speed to grab the chicken, sometimes even in mid-air. Great show.

This afternoon we went into Ladysmith, an hour's drive, to visit a museum and try find a computor store - forgetting that everything shuts on Saturday afternoon. So, lunch at Chickin Lickin, then a slow meander back to Champagne Castle.

Stopped at some gift stores along the way back and found a new car accessory.

Champaigne Castle

2009-10-02T20:26:00.000+02:00

Today's Route: rest day

Although the day, like yesterday, was overcast and drizzly at Champaigne Castle, we had planned a balloon flight and we determined to get it in. Marc Nuthall, a good friend, had brought his balloon down from Johannesburg as arranged before we left the US.
The Sierras, the Boyntons, the Kennedy's, Bill and I piled into the hotel combi minibus and drove the 40 kms to Winterton to meet Marc. In the valley, although it was overcast, it was dry and dead calm. The flight was great - very, very slow with a net distance travelled of onlya mile or so. No matter, it was great fun - I even got to fly the balloon for a while - a huge 240. After the flight Marc took us to a local B&B for breakfast - very nice place.

After lunch, there was nothing planned, so I worked on the car, and as usual, when someone gets tools out (me in this case), pretty soon everyone is there lending their "helpful" suggestions. One of the hallmarks of these tours are these informal technical sessions around the cars - they are always fun.

Had a nice dinner at the hotel - always lots of good dicussion. These other people from all over the world are really so nice to talk to. Aside from the food, the conversations make dinner realy special

Dundee to Champaigne Castle

2009-10-01T15:48:00.001+02:00

Todays route: 100 miles

Today we left Dundee headed on a short drive to Champaigne Castle in the Drakensburg Mountains. Bill drove at first, then I took over.

Intially we were driving through rolling hills, not very steep - bare veld on either side. Once through Ladysmith, it became a little hillier, and then just before arriving at the hotel we encountered a very steep climb - 15% gradient requiring all of low gear.

The mountains are wonderful - high, majestic and today cloud covered - with those clouds that form below the peak and seem like cotton wool on the side of the slopes.

The weather is drizzly - hopefully it will clear up - bu that wetness gives the incredible floral variety such deepness of color it is quite breathtaking.

As always, at every stop or gas station we are mobbed by inquisitive people, all of whom are friendly and usually quite astounded.

This afternoon we will likely go on a hike in the mountains.

Swaziland to Dundee, Natal-Kwazulu

2009-09-30T23:35:00.002+02:00

Today's Route: Swaziland to Dundee, Natal 170 miles

Today was switch day - Linda going home and Bill coming in. With this in mnind, we decided to skip breakfast and head out at 7 am, as there was a lot of driving planned - about 120 miles more than the rest of the group to meet up with Antony.

The day was dull, grey and cold. The cloud base was very low, and the mist was thick. As Swaziland is such a mountainous country, we soon began climbing - up an up and by 300 feet we were in the thick o fit. Visibility was dropping rapidly and at 4000 frrt I could only see as far as the flying Lady on the front of the bonnet! Very slow driving - about 10 mpg, and even worse on the downhill. A contant fear of not being seen by a much faster moving vehicle coming up from behind. Two such passes and we had really slowed down. The, we were pulled over by a carload of cops - what could it possibly be? Well, they pulled me over because they just wanted to look at the car! Only in Swaziland.

Finally, the border post - we crossed both sides and called Antony. We were running very late - we still had to get to Piet Retief and then Ermelo. Antony, on the other hand was running early - so he drove all the way to Piet Retief and arrived very shortly after us - that saved me the extra 120 miles! Bill now joined the group, but we had to say goodbye to Linda. It's fair to say she had become fast friends with many of the participants and they were sorry to see her go, as was I.

So, now not far behind the main group we set off for the last 150 miles of the day. It went quite quickly, and we arrivd at the hotel in time for a light lunch. We then set off for the local museum, where Bill Kennedy did hios panoramic shot of all the cars - a great sight! A shrt tour of the museum - mining and the Anglo Boer War, and then back to the hotel.

Just before dinner we had a demonstration of a local reneactment group - they showed us weapons from those wars. Interesting.

Tomorrow a pleasant drive to the Drakensburg

Swaziland

2009-09-29T19:46:00.002+02:00

Today's route: None - rest day

We slept a little late as the Royal Villas in Swaziland are conducive to that. After we awoke, we found the day to be grey but dry and fairly warm. So, a nice breakfast, following which I cleaned the magneto out of all the shredded parts and took it "offline".

Jaquie and Lynn Boynton invited us to join them for the day, so we hopped into their car to go visit the local market. 160 shack type stalls, each selling African tourist products. At each stall, you are invited in to look, but the pressure to buy is there as you quickly notice the meagre living conditions of these people. So, always willing to do her part, Linda stocked up on Swazi products!

After the market, we headed off to the Botanical Gardens for lunch. Lovely place, with incredible color. The lunch, as you might imagine by now, was terrific - I finally managed to hold back...well at least until I found the carrot cake. Lunch partners were the Buckinghams and Lord and Lady Laidlaw. Had a great time.

After lunch, by now almost 4pm, we headed back to the villas to relax, the only thing on the agenda being dinner!

Tomorrow, Linda leaves the tour to go back to Atlanta, so I will detour from the tour to go to Ermelo - there I will drop Linda off to meet her brother who is coming down from Johannesburg, bringing Bill "in exchange". Hope he has the magneto parts

Kwazulu to Swaziland

2009-09-28T19:10:00.003+02:00

Today's Route: 205 miles

Today was a longish drive from Kwazulu-Natal to Swaziland - 205 miles. After glorious weather yesterday, today dawnd grey, cold and with a promise of rain. Being Yom Kippur, we skipped breakkfast and set off early - only to stop within a mile to put the roof up as the cold wind was a little to penetrating.

The border to Swaziland was just 30 miles - and shortly before getting there we came upon three giraffe at the side of the road. I wanted a photo of them crossing in front of the Ghost, but apparently they did not think it as good an idea.

The border was interesting - go inside, present all your paperwork, get lots of stamps, the drive 50 feet into Swaziland and do it all again.

Swaziland is a beautiful country - all mountains, with every hillside scattered with villages of thatched rondavels, kraals with goats and cattle, and occasional stores. People seem to be everywhere, very friendly and very interested in the car.

By now it was raining lightly, so we put on the side curtains - became quite warm and toasty inside. Linda preferred that!

The road to the lunch stop was not good. Full of potholes, it was a switchback mountainous road that climbed to 5000 feet. As we had now ascended into the cloud and mist, visibility was very poor. We had intended to bypass the lunch stop, and we soon realised it was an out and back route - we would have to retrace the same road. So, we turned around. On the descent (in 1st gear all the way to hold the car back), we came upon a terrible accident on that road - the police were just clearing it.

Driving to the hotel, many Ghost passed us on their way to lunch in the direction we had just come from. Needless to say, that created confusion as they all thought they were going the wrong way!

Once at the magnificent Royal Villas we were shown to our villa - and entire house with indoor parking just for us. As they are used by the King of Swaziland, and owned by him, they are spectacular. That did not, however, stop me from servicing the car in the garage and leaving the telltale marking. I will clean it before we leave. In servicing, I found we had suffered the common magneto failure (points destroyed) - managed to call Bill V before he left nad he will bring some - in the meantime I have disconnected the magneto and will run on one ignition.

Another wonderful dinner - good food made better by great company - the Boyntons and Kennedys. Tomorrow is an explore day - likely go to the craft market. No long drive.

First Day on Tour

2009-09-26T23:44:00.003+02:00

Today's route: Zimbali to Manzini 172 miles. (Google Earth file)

Today was a fantastic day - and the start of the tour.

At 8.30 this morning, John White lined all the cars up, and one by one we were waved off under the swoop of a large South African flag. This was the moment we had all been waiting for after almost 3 years of planning.

The route today was gentle and easy. Leaving Zimbali on the N2, we headed northeast, parallel to the coast, and through the Valley of a Thousand Hills. Undulating hills, green with the thick field of sugar cane stretched out before us. On either side as we drove, people whistled and waved,cars flashed their lights and trucks blew their horns.

In and amongst the sugar cane fields, small villages of round huts with thatched roofs were sprinkled, each alive and colorful. Cattle occasionally would come to the road. At each petrol stop, the cars were surrounded by people, each wanting to learn a little something about these wonderful machines.

Arriving at lunch, we entered the Zululand Tree Lodge - a private game resort. Impala were sighted on the way in. A wonde3rful buffett lunch of lamb, chicken, beef stew, salads, vegetables and deserts was enjoyed overlooking a small watering hole - where several Nyala came to drink. It was spectacular.

A short run of 35 miles to our day's stop - Ghost Mountain Ranch. The car performed well - and the overdrive is just terrific.

As we entered the ranch, Zuku dancers lines both sides of the road in full dress, the drums and dancing frenetic. Unbeleivable. Once checked in, we had a sunset cruise on the very large lake - spotted hippo, amazing birdlife and several antelope species.

The night ended with a terrific display of Zulu dancing around a large fire, and then another magnificent dinner. At this eating rate, I'll have to have the car's springs re-arched to support us by the end of this tour.

Tomorrow is a rest day - morning and evening game safaris (and more food)

We are reunited

2009-09-25T18:57:00.001+02:00

Today we finally got to the docks to retrieve the cars. After a terrific breakfast, we all boared a large motorcoach and took the trip to thte docks. On arrival, all the containers were in a row, they opened the doors and there they were.

We removed the tie-downs, and pushed Bertie out. Looking pretty good for his trip, I checked out oil etc - but he did not start. A quick fiddle around, and all was well. We simply drove out the docks - no paperwork at all - John and Stuart had done a magnificent job of organization minimizing our hassle to zero. A quick fill up, and then headed north back to Zimbali Lodge... or so we thought.

Navigating Durban traffic and streets is an excercise in itself. A few wrong turns, but we managed to find the main beach road (Marine Parade) and we knew that would get up back. We had a great 39 mile run back to the hotel - where we parked, lubricated and are ready for our start tomorrow.

We set off around 8.30 am for Ghost Mountain Inn in Mkuzi - about 170 miles or so.

And so have we

2009-09-23T23:40:00.000+02:00

We have just arrived at Zimbalai Lodge, north of Durban. The flight from Atlanta was uneventful for us, but two other participants were not so lucky having missed their flights to Atlanta due to the poor weather and flooding in Atlanta. They will arrive over the next 2 days.

Had a lovely dinner at the airport, as we were met by Linda's mom for the 2 hour layover we had. Then, a short one hour flight to Durban and an hour's drive to Zimbali.

We ran into Bill and Kris Kennedy, as well as Matt Sysack, Bob Brod and Stuart Maxwell, but being 11.30 pm - it's time for bed.

Raining persistantly.

Bertie has made it

2009-09-20T06:04:00.000+02:00

After a long sea voyage, Bertie has made it to Durban and is currently in the docks awaiting offloading from the ship. We will pick the car up on Friday.

2009-09-19T05:04:00.000+02:00

Apparently the winds and weather are difficult in Durban, and all ships are delayed in docking. MSC Damla, with the car aboard, has been trawling along the coast for the past 4 days waiting their turn.

I'm told the car should dock tomorrow - hope so!

Bertie crosses the Atlantic

2009-09-11T22:39:00.001+02:00

After weeks at sea, the MSC Damla, with Bertie aboard, arrived at their first port of call in Africa - Cape Town. The ship has left that port for Port Elizabeth, and then finally Durban where the car will be offloaded and stored. The image above is the tracking map from the ship's ARPS.

We plan to on picking Bertie up on September 25th.

Shipping to South Africa

2009-08-12T16:58:00.008+02:00

We took the car to the loading facility in Savannah, Georgia on Monday.

After securing the car to the open trailer, Bill and I (and a friend visiting from Australia) set off early to be there by 1 pm - it's a five hour drive. We stopped every 50 miles or so to check the tie down straps, and aside from one time they

needed tightening, the car was well secured. As we were a little early, we detoured to visit Andy Cayton on his farm just outside Savannah and were treated to a quick ride in his restored vintage Army helicopter.

Arriving at the loading facility, we met up with Mike and Cynthia Sierra - our container mates. Their 1914 Ghost is spectacular. After waiting just a short while, we loaded both cars into the container and their mechanic did a great job of blocking and securing the cars. Ran the car with the fuel turned off to clear the lines, and then closed it all up. Then lunch on the waterfront in historic Savannah, and the drive home.

With the cars on the way, the adventure really begins....

Further posts will begin when the tour starts - Sept 21

Getting ready.....

2009-08-08T14:19:00.004+02:00

For several months now I have been getting the car ready for the tour. This included a major tune up, as well as the installation of an air filter and carburetor rebuild, replacement of the fan blades and a host of other tasks too numerous to mention.

With it being a two seater car, space is very limited, so very careful selection of tools and supplies, as well as clothing was made.

So, now for the shipping - scheduled for August 10.